Two ways to see the Rockies: canoe & horseback

July 14, 2026

View from the bow of a canoe across the green water of Emerald Lake, a paddler in a yellow life vest ahead, a flat-topped mountain rising across the lake under broken clouds

After a few days of driving from one viewpoint to the next, I wanted to actually be out in the place instead of looking at it through a windshield. These two days did that. One was on the water and one was on a horse, and both were slower than driving, which was the point.

A Morning on Emerald Lake

Looking down the length of Emerald Lake from the canoe, calm green water reflecting the forested slopes, a few other canoes far across the lake

Emerald Lake sits just across the line into Yoho. The water really is green, the same glacial-sediment trick as the other lakes around here. We rented a canoe and went out early while it was still flat, before the wind got up. Easy paddling, and quiet if you beat the crowd.

Into the Backcountry on Horseback

A rider in a pink jacket on horseback at the ranch corral, ready to head out, forest and mountains behind

The next day we did a trail ride out of a ranch into the backcountry. I’ve ridden enough to be comfortable in the saddle, even if I’m no expert. You cover a lot more ground than you would on foot, and the pace leaves you free to look around.

A line of riders strung out along a forest trail, horses nose-to-tail under tall spruce

A rider crossing an open meadow on horseback, mountains in the distance under a soft sky

We rode up through the trees, across a few muddy patches, and out into some open country with mountains in the distance. The horses had clearly done the loop plenty of times and mostly ran the show.

Close-up of a rider on horseback, with forested mountains behind

A canoe one day and a horse the next. Everything on this trip has been worthwhile in its own way, and these two were a welcome change of pace from sitting in the car.